BLOG 014: Common Factory Terms Designers Misunderstand
The Vocabulary Gap
Designers often blame factories for delays and cost overruns, yet most miscommunications originate on the designer’s side. Terms like “MOQ” or “CMT” get thrown around without context. The result? Quotes that don’t match expectations, ignored emails and production calendars that slip by months. The true problem is not the factory it’s a vocabulary gap.
Where Miscommunication Starts
Factories operate with a precision vocabulary developed over decades. When designers misuse it, manufacturers lose confidence and hedge with buffers. CMT (Cut, Make & Trim) is a model where the factory cuts the fabric, sews the garment and adds trims while the buyer supplies fabric, patterns and technical specifications. When a designer assumes CMT includes fabric sourcing, they’ll be surprised by missing material costs. Grading is the process of scaling a pattern to create different sizes while maintaining proportions. If you submit one size and assume the factory will grade, you may be charged extra or get inconsistent fits. Marker making arranges pattern pieces on fabric to minimise waste; poorly planned markers increase fabric consumption and cost.
Sampling jargon is particularly misunderstood. A sample or prototype is the first physical version of a garment used to evaluate fit, construction and materials. Designers sometimes skip this stage, expecting the first production run to be perfect yet prototypes reveal sewing difficulties and measurement inconsistencies. The top sample is the final approved version before bulk production; any deviation from this reference triggers rework. A pre‑production sample (PP sample) is created for final approval, whereas a fit sample tests measurements and construction. Knowing which sample you’re reviewing prevents endless iterations.
Two terms drive quotes and timelines: MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity) and lead time. MOQ is the smallest quantity a supplier is willing to produce and applies to fabrics, trims, finished garments and packaging. High MOQs reduce unit costs but limit flexibility; low MOQs raise per‑unit cost. Designers who ignore MOQs request orders too small to be profitable for factories, so their enquiries go unanswered. Lead time refers to the total time from order confirmation to final delivery; it includes development, sourcing, manufacturing and logistics. Designers who set unrealistic launch dates without understanding lead time force factories into overtime or quality compromises.
Finally, tech pack is not a nice‑to‑have; it’s the blueprint of production. A tech pack compiles all information needed to produce a garment measurements, construction details, materials, trims, stitching instructions and visual references. Without a tech pack, factories make assumptions, leading to misinterpretations that delay sampling and increase cost. Even the definition of MOQ and PP sample varies across factories; some see MOQ per colour while others apply it to the total order. Clarity in vocabulary prevents expensive misalignment.
Factory Language Playbook
To communicate effectively with factories, adopt the following operator‑level vocabulary system:
Production model clarity.
Decide whether you need CMT (factory cuts and sews using your fabrics and patterns) or Full Package Production (FPP) where the factory sources materials, makes patterns and delivers finished garments. State this upfront to obtain accurate costings.
Provide a Bill of Materials (BOM) listing all fabrics, trims, labels and packaging. In many factories, a BOM is part of the tech pack.
Technical documentation.
Create a thorough tech pack that includes flat sketches, CADs, colourways, sizing charts, construction details, labelling information and a Bill of Materials. This centralised document reduces misunderstandings and serves as the legal contract for production.
If you lack technical skill, work with a technical designer. According to White2Label’s in‑house study, clients with tech packs hit production in 2 rounds of sampling or less; those without tech packs required 4.5 rounds.
Sampling sequence.
Start with a prototype to translate your concept into a tangible garment. Use this to refine fit and construction.
Request a fit sample for each size you plan to sell. Use a tracking sheet to record feedback and approvals.
Approve a top sample or PP sample the final version used as the benchmark for production. Reference this sample in your Purchase Order so deviations are clear.
Ordering terms and timelines.
Confirm the MOQ per style, per colour and per size range. Balance the unit cost savings of higher quantities against inventory risk.
Determine the lead time required for each stage: sample development, material sourcing, production, quality control and shipping. Build a timeline that reflects reality rather than wishful thinking.
Communicate your desired delivery window in calendar weeks, not vague “ASAP.”
Costing model.
Recognise that quotes may be FOB (Free on Board), meaning ownership transfers at the port of shipment, or LDP (Landed Duty Paid) where costs include shipping, customs, duty and insurance. Clarify which price you are quoting to avoid surprise fees.
Ask about grading fees, pattern making fees, and sample charges. Most factories charge for these services unless rolled into unit pricing.
A condensed glossary helps internal teams align before contacting factories:
CMT (Cut, Make & Trim): Production model where the factory cuts fabric, sews garments and adds trims; the buyer supplies fabric, patterns and specs.
FPP (Full Package Production): Factory sources materials, develops patterns and delivers finished garments.GradingScaling a pattern to create different sizes while keeping proportions.
Marker Making: Arranging pattern pieces on fabric to optimise material usage and reduce waste.
Prototype/Sample: First physical garment for evaluation of fit and construction.
Top Sample/PP Sample: Final approved sample that serves as the production benchmark.
MOQ: Minimum order quantity; the smallest quantity a supplier will produce. Lead TimeTotal time from order confirmation to delivery, including development and logistics.
Tech Pack: Detailed document with measurements, materials and construction details guiding production.
FOB: Free on Board; price includes production and loading onto the shipping vessel.
LDP: Landed Duty Paid; price includes production, shipping, customs and duties.
Speaking It Correctly
Consider a young label commissioning 100 jackets from an overseas factory. The designer emails, “What’s your MOQ? We need 100 units.” The factory’s MOQ per colour is 300, so the inquiry is ignored. The designer thinks the factory is unresponsive. Later, they send a sketch and ask for a quote without a tech pack. The factory returns a high price plus long lead time because they must guess fabric yield and pattern complexity. The designer orders 100 jackets anyway; after six months, the jackets arrive with inconsistent sizes and missing trims.
Now, imagine the operator approach. Before contacting the factory, the designer creates a tech pack with measurements, fabrics and trims, plus a BOM. They research that the factory’s MOQ per colour is 300 units and decide to produce 300 black and 300 navy jackets to hit the MOQ while reducing per‑unit cost. They plan an eight‑week lead time for sampling and production, building in two weeks for shipping. They request a CMT quote with separate line items for labour and trims. The factory responds promptly, sampling proceeds quickly and the final jackets match the approved top sample. By speaking the factory’s language, the designer reduces cost, avoids delays and builds a long‑term partnership.
Close the Gap
Factories respect clarity and preparation. At Midnight, we translate your vision into the language of manufacturing. Our team builds tech packs, manages sampling, aligns MOQs and negotiates lead times so you don’t have to guess. Whether you’re producing 300 tees or 3,000 jackets, we communicate with suppliers on operator terms and protect your margins. Send us your concept and let’s turn it into a production‑ready brief.